DAY 55 - WED 4/24 - Roquebrune-C-M

Today we had no set plan. We got a late start, mostly because we decided to do a clothes wash in the machine. It washes but there is no dryer, so you have to set up the clothesline outside in the back garden and also the drying rack on the front terrace and hang all the clothes out to dry. It's a throwback to those good old days when things were much simpler.

While we were working the laundry Jill was doing some research. Since the weather was glorious again today, we wanted to make the most of it. So why not find a good restaurant with a fabulous setting and/or view of the sea, and have a great lunch.

First we made our requisite stop at the Gran Café, greeted by the owner, our new best friend Maurizio, a very charming and nice guy who know everyone in town by name and what they eat for breakfast, including us!

Jill found a two-knifeandfork in the red Michelin Guide, the Cammarata Bible when traveling in Europe. It's called L'Hippocampe, meaning The Seahorse, located along the sea road outside the little town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, with a spectacular setting on some cliffs overlooking La Mer with its turquoise-blue waves breaking on the rocks just below.  Et bien voila!

By the time we drove and found the place it was about 2pm. 

Upon entering the restaurant they lead you to the outdoor terrasse with the sun shining down on this glorious view and the sea breezes blowing...it takes your breath away!

There's a beautiful inside dining room as well, but today it's all happening outside!

When we sat down and read the menu, we knew we had picked a good one. We decided this would be our main meal of the day. A two-knifeandfork is good enough for us...we don't need any etoiles (Michelin stars).
(NOTE: If you don't want to know what we ate, then skip down to CONTINUE below.)

They brought us an amuse bouche to start of a jigger of creamed zucchini mouse with black truffle oil, fresh radishes with their long stems still on, delicious rolls, and a large cake mound of butter, about 8" in diameter and 3" high...never saw anything like it! We know the French are proud of their dairy industry but, really! 

Then we shared a spaghetti alle vongole (with baby clam sauce) which actually was the closest thing to what we used to get in Roma, and it was absolutely delicious!


For the main courses, Marty had Rouget, five red fish about 5" long each and very meaty that were pan sautéed along with a little creamed spinach and some thinly sliced cooked fennel on the side. 

Ymmmmm...

Jill had Lotte, monkfish, in a green peppercorn cream sauce that was to die for, with some lovely rice to mix in with the ample amount of sauce.


By this time we were both on cloud nine...for us this was as good as a one-star Michelin. We ended the meal by sharing a Tarte au Citron with meringue topping and a scoop of home-made Moka ice cream. All this, along with the amuse bouche of Seahorse Butter Cookies with our café, and the gorgeous setting, gave this the SUPER WOW factor!

CONTINUE: We told the waitress how terrific everything was and asked why this place does not have a Michelin one-star rating, and she explained that it had at one time, but the chef, her grandfather, got too old and it lost its star. Now the current chef is his nephew, doing the same recipes. We asked how the Lotte was prepared, and she said she would get the recipe. Instead, Christian, the chef himself, actually came out to our table and told us the recipe. We were surprised and delighted...he let us take his picture and we gave him our highest complimenti. 

We took a few more pictures of the restaurant and the view, and then went on our way, winking at each other that we had found another real winner. We were very happy, and full, with wonderful food too!


    



We drove into Roquebrune Cap Martin, parked along the beach, then walked nearly the length of this rocky beach and saw our share of topless babes, including octogenarians. 

This town, it seems, is a very quiet location, off the tourist path and perfect for retirement. Very few young families were around. 

We then doubled back along the curvy road heading out of town and discovered many cars parked in a narrow lot just along the road. We parked again to find out what the attraction was besides the rocky outcrop and the sea. We found the answer....a beautiful, narrow walkway stretching for several miles along the sea where many families and joggers took advantage of the warm, sunny weather to stroll. We walked about a mile out and back to help digest lunch and breath the cool, misty sea air...a very nice break.

It was still sunny out and Jill was ready to venture up to the Grande Corniche to see some of the little villages high on their perches, as long as Marty drove slowly. We started to go up to the vieux ville (old village) of Beausoleil. The road went on forever, twisting and turning with unbelievable switchback turns and one foot high rocky walls the only 'protection' between you and a free-fall! At a certain point we still hadn't reached the old town, and Jill said OK, she had seen enough, so we found a piece of cement, part of someone's garage entrance into the mountain on a curve...everything is on a curve up there!...and took a chance to turn around, another fun thing to do. We did it, and now we were on our decent. That was a big venture for Jill, but she couldn't look out the window long enough to take any pictures of the spectacular views that appeared around every switchback curve.

We then decided to go someplace beautiful that we knew, so we continued along the Basse Corniche back to Cap d'Ail where that wonderful restaurant, Le Pinede, was and where we had lunch a few days ago with that amazing view. 

As we get out of traffic on the main road and turn off to Cap d'Ail, we start descending down the narrow windy road down to the sea, along the stone walls and privet hedges hiding beautiful villa estates which you can peek into here and there.

We finally arrive at La Pinede where we had that spectacular lunch overlooking the sea.

We wanted to have a glass of wine at the restaurant, so we parked easily because it was the end of the day...but unfortunately the restaurant was closed (only open for lunch in April).  

As we walked toward the entrance to the place, Marty started talking to two young bikers, probably in their early thirties, who were taking a rest. 

                                         

Philippe is from Brussels, Belgium, a psychiatrist, and Thomas is from Copenhagen, Denmark. Both are taking their MBA in Entrepreneurship at a graduate studies university in Nice. We spoke with them for quite a while because what they were doing was so interesting, not to mention that they were top-notch long distance bikers. And they were so interested in hearing about business in the United States, and some of Marty's experiences and challenges negotiating deals in so many different countries, and about being a consultant. 

In the end, Philippe (well over 6 feet tall, blond, and Wow was he handsome...Thomas wasn't bad either) had the idea that maybe, if Marty wanted to, Philippe would propose to their main professeur that Marty come and talk to the class, or maybe have a round table discussion. At first it sounded crazy, but then as we talked more, we all realized that this could be a fantastic opportunity for everyone. Philippe will talk to his professeur and get back to us in the next few days, because he knows we are leaving soon. 

Life is all about networking...here it is again...Serendipity!! 
On sais jamais! (One never knows!)

We said our good-byes for now and all decided to leave together, Phillippe and Thomas on their bikes and us in our car.  It was all up hill...but they are both unbelievable riders, so that was nothing for them.

On our way back to Beaulieu-Sur-Mer we decided to have that drink at Le Max at the port. We have become friendly with Davide, the Maitre D', the guy that looks just like Stanley Tucci. Too full for dinner, we settled for some prosciutto with mozzarella de buffala, perfect, and called it a night.

What another fabulous and serendipitous day on the Côte d'Azur.
Can this get any better?

Bonne nuit tout le monde.