DAY 50 - FRI 4/19 - Cap d'Ail up to Eze

What a day today was, of downs (at sea level) and ups (literally in the clouds). We knew the weather was going to change in the afternoon from sunny to overcast, so we tried to make the most of it, AND WE DID!

First things first, we had our requisite cafe in town, and while we were there we browsed a little in a warehouse type store nearby that had a big sign out front: 'Cette Semaine Destockage' meaning 'Warehouse Sale This Week.'  They had a melange of really crazy stuff, and it was so much fun.

Then we headed to Monaco, and as we approached the little village of Cap d'Ail just before Monaco, we decided to explore it, since it's right on the sea and the weather was still perfect. Well, what a village! The tiny 'centre ville' is typical, with little shops and cafes and sparse parking. But as you follow the signs down to 'la plage et bord du mer' (the beach and edge of the sea), the road becomes one way and barely narrow enough for just one car and sometimes room for one to park in some niches of the high stone walls that border the entire street to give privacy to some of the most luxurious mega-mansions on the Côte d'Azur. The road winds all the way down to sea level, with switchbacks after every few estates, all with magnificent gardens and all facing and hanging over the sea! Folks, the likes of the Hamptons and Palm Beach are pikers compared to this!! We couldn't help but notice one immense building, probably the size of the New York Public Library on Fifth Avenue, called Eden Residence that sits at one of the highest points in the town. It is a private residence with apartments to rent...maybe we should move there to fully retire...it's secluded, on beautifully tended grounds with gated entry, and not far from Monaco and Nice. 

   

We continue all the way down this serpent-like road until we come to a restaurant, La Pinede, hanging over the sea! It's a MUST! The views of the sea and the mountains are to die for and on this clear, sunny day you can see seaside villages miles away along the coast. We have to have lunch here!  

    

As you approach, it has many different seating areas for cocktails or snacks or dining indoors or out on the terrace. 

We decide to sit on the outdoor terrace that is set up with white table cloths for lunch. And with the sun shining, what a lunch it was! Marty decided on the pre fixe 43€ menu and Jill chose an appetizer of tuna, scallop, and salmon, all carpaccio (raw) in paper-thin 5-inch rounds...a beautiful presentation. Marty's pre fixe started with a sort of house anti pasto which included a sumptuous array of tiny fried fish, Spanish sardines, tapenade, herring, pimento, mushrooms, bread, etc. (this would have already been enough for lunch!). His main course was large, grilled prawns. All this was washed down with some amazing Sancere wine. Jill shared in the feast along with her carpaccio. 

After dessert of a gorgeous plate of profiteroles and melted chocolate in a tiny copper pot to drizzle over the cream puffs, and cafe noisettes, and lots of picture taking, we reluctantly said our "Bonjours" to the staff. 

Just below the restaurant and along the waters edge was a paved walking/jogging path which we took advantages of for nearly an hour to walk off lunch along the parapet! WOW! How breathtaking!

   

As we walked we could see the predicted mist creeping in from the sea and climbing up the mountains above. 

Despite the change in the weather, we decided to take a chance and drive to Eze, the mountain top village way above Beaulieu, high on the Moyenne Corniche (the middle cliff road). 

We drove the steep, windy road leisurely to avoid Jill having to dive under the dashboard every time we took a sharp turn at speed. At Eze you cannot drive into the tiny village as it is on a mountain top. You must leave your car in a parking area, feed the meter, and walk up into the cobblestone village. Tour busses by the dozens bring people to see Eze and park behind the Fragonard perfume factory where you can design your own scent...not our thing. Luckily the place was rather empty today...good for us!

   

    

The ascent to the village is steep and very narrow on stone walkways. The buildings are basically carved out of the stone which makes up the mountain and, therefore, they're very small. There are some bigger structures which are now magnificent five star hotels as well as the church near the top. The very top of the mountain on which Eze is built is a small park but under refurbishment and not accessable. 

All along the minute byways which are barely shoulder width you stumble upon art galleries, gift shops, restaurants, cafes and ateliers never knowing where you are actually walking. We occasionally have to ask directions from locals. Beautiful flowers are everywhere.
   

    

  

Due to the hovering cloud over Eze, very few tourists were on the hill and we like that. In season, Eze can be a nightmare with wall to wall tourists making the experience unbearable. We decided, for nostalgia reasons, to have a drink at Le Chèvre D'Or (golden goat) which we had done so many years ago. It had a little cafe literally hanging over the cliff. Now it is a gorgeous five-star hotel, bar and restaurant with an outdoor terrace used in warmer weather. We chose to sit on the terrace where we had sat those many years ago. We were laughing because each half bottle of Perrier we ordered was about $5, and we were sitting virtually in the clouds, so all we could see was each other...But despite all that we were enjoying it all. 

By now it's nearly six o'clock and our parking meter runs out in a few minutes. We quickly settle up and make the easier climb down the hill to the parking area. Our car is safe and we descend the steep road down to sea level and home to Beaulieu. 

While this was not an ideal weather day, we certainly made the most of it at La Pineda in Cap D'Ail on the sea, and in Eze up in the clouds...quel jour!...what a day! Altogether, another spectacular day on the Côte D'Azur. We both crash and decide that dinner tonight is not happening.....something we can both afford.

Bonne nuit tout le monde. A demain (until tomorrow)...