Monday, April 8, 2013

DAY 38 - SUN 4/7 - Marche aux Puces

Today is Sunday and the weather report is finally for a warm, sunny day...a perfect day to take Gail to the open-air food market at the Bastille, aka Marche Richard Lenoir. She hasn't been to one with us on this trip and the warm weather will do her good. We meet Gail on the platform of Metro stop Rue du Bac and off we go. 
                                 


Then, as if a bolt of lightening struck, Jill got this great idea that since the weather is so good today, we should grab the opportunity and go to the Marche aux Puces instead, the great Paris flea market at Porte de Clignancourt that is only open on the weekend and Monday, even more fun than a food market. We all agree, and a quick change of trains gets us there.
                                  

As it's Sunday, we know this flea market, which must be at least a square kilometer, will be crowded...and it was...which adds to the atmosphere. Leaving the Metro we walked the several streets you must wend your way through, with hoards of cheap clothing and trinket stands where hawkers try to convince you to buy their junk, to get to the upscale areas. However, Jill did buy some much needed camera batteries at a good discount. It's not surprising to even see a Bentley wending through the traffic to get to the Flea Market.
                                                  

We decide to wander around some old favorite areas like Marche Vernaison, and then head over to our favorite area, Marche Paul Bert. That's one of the sections where you can find fine jewelry, taxidermic game animals, beautiful antique and art deco furniture and chandeliers to the tune of $50,000!  







The sights and treasures go on and on in this sun-like atmosphere...

        
















We walk around for a little while and then get a phone call from Christine Brooks, our new American friend in Paris. She was planning to come here anyway and will join us. Jill thinks we should secure a table at Le Paul Bert, the bistro in the marche, which we do. It begins to get crowded and we order. Soon Christine shows up with her dog, not a good thing at this now super tight and crowded bistro. We order way too much food and chat for an hour or so and then depart...for scarf country. Christine proves helpful, locating several stands carrying the precious goods. (We used to know the marche like the back of our hand too, but it's been a while.). 
     

Jill is on a quest for another vintage Hermes scarf.  She sleuths down a pretty one, tries it on and falls in love with it because it has very similar colors to the one she lost 45 years ago.  She returns to the stall an hour later to buy it, only to learn that it was sold...bummer!!  If you snooze you loose!
                                              

It's getting near the end of the day and Gail is suffering with her cold and the cooler temp, so we get her into a taxi for a swift return to her hotel. 

We then walk back to the market and have a cafe and wonderful hot chocolate and admire the lovers sitting in front of us. 


We then stroll to the Marche Biron area, passing La Cocotte, a hip bistro, new since we were here last, where it's definitely a scene, with 'Le Tout Paris' posing, preening, and promenading all around the place on this glorious sunny Sunday afternoon, like they're in the south of France. We people-watch for a while, and then head for home.





      



We get ready for dinner tonight at Mon Vieil Ami on L'Ile Saint-Louis with our friend Stephanie Fray, the PR person for chefs and restaurants, and with Thierry Molinengo, our cooking instructor and the Chef de Cuisine for Le Grand Vefour. We suggested getting together because we thought they would have some interesting connections. Gail did not join us as she still wasn't feeing 100% and the French-English conversation would be too much concentration to connect with, so just Marty and I went to meet them.

Thierry arrived with his charming wife, Catherine (Kati) who is a very vivacious woman but does not speak English. Her 'joie de vivre' and clear pronunciation (she's from the south of France where they do speak more slowly and clearly) made it very easy for us to communicate with her, and she adores New York. They all knew this restaurant and the food was interesting and great. 









The chef and all the wait staff fawned all over us, because they knew who Thierry was, and it was a great and magical evening. Thierry will be in Cannes later in April when we will be near Nice, so we may see him again soon after we arrive in the South. Thierry's career may bring him to New York for a few years in the near future. Look out foodies!

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