DAY 4 - MON 3/4 - Right Bank

As we explored some of our old haunts, some things need no explanation: 

- The Seine, with Le Grand Palais, a huge glass-domed exhibition hall, in the distance

-The Louvre

- L'Opera

   

- Obelisk in Place Vendome

Then we catch a happening in Place Vendome - photo shoot - glitterati, paparazzi, models all around. 

   

Nearby, off Place de la Madeleine, there's L'Olympia, the famous music hall.

   

On another corner is Cafe de L'Olympia, which we used to frequent...typical bistro food and great people-watching.  We have lunch there for old times sake...two omelettes and a Demi pression (a small glass of draft beer). The sun made us warm and we shed some layers. Just behind L'Opera we located Galleries Lafayette, the venerable French department store. It has become two huge buildings - one for men and one for women - what a great concept. Down the street is Au Printemps, the other venerable department store. It too has doubled in size to two buildings. Both stores are jammed and you wonder who is working.

Then we wandered over to nearby Rue Cambon and the Hotel de Castille, which now has been expanded and completely renovated, so we hardly recognized the place.  We ended up 'living' at the Hotel de Castille for 3 months when we first arrived in Paris in April, 1968, until our furniture could be delivered to our apartment.  That was because everything was on strike due to the student and worker uprising that was going on at that time.   

  

At that time the Hotel de Castille was owned by Charles Ritz.  It was right opposite the back entrance on Rue Cambon to the world-famous Ritz Hotel.  Marty actually had his 'office' in a small telex room in the Ritz, and so he got to meet Charlie Ritz from time to time because they both were there every day.   This back entrance to the Ritz was in fact the very revolving door that Princess Diana exited through just before taking that fatal car ride. The Ritz is currently being renovated, a two year project, so that exit with the revolving door has been completely demolished.  But you can still see the nearby sign overhead where the original and famous, or infamous, 'Bar Hemingway' was located.  Hopefully  it will be restored to its original and historically correct grandeur. 

We wander over to Place Madeleine and make quick stops at Fauchon and Heddiard, two famous wonderful food stores which have now become bakeries and snack stores, but Heddiard now surpasses Fauchon in style and sheer lavish presentation of exotic foods such as teas and coffee.

Jill then spots the Clairvue Optique shop on Rue Tronchet, one of her old haunts. Here she finally finds the eye glass frames she's been searching for. Charming Sara, the sales girl, is very sympatique and Jill orders a special color frame which will be ready in three weeks. She is happy and we can eliminate Optique shops from our to-do list now.  

This is not the style that Jill ordered!

More fashion...

We work our way over to Rue Royale passed Maximes and turn right into Place de la Concorde in view of the Hotel de Crillon where we spent many hours and days at the Vietnam Peace Conference in May of '68. Marty engages the concierge and learns about the changes in the building since that famous period and how the hotel will also close for two years for renovations. It seems that all the grand Paris hotels are doing this to remain competitive in this luxury market. We must come back to the Hotel de Crillon for a drink for old times sake before it closes at the end of March for renovations.

    

It's now 7pm and dark. We do something we've never done before, walk all the way across Place de la Concorde and the Seine!  That's the best way to savor some of the magnificent structures along the way that are lit up at night...Place de la Concorde with Cleopatra's needle in the center, Champs Elysees, National Assembly building, Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and the barges along the Seine. It is long, complicated and nerve-wracking to maneuver this walk, across many intersecting roads and islands, with cars speeding from every which way...but we make it!

  

  

Now across the Seine and on the left bank, we stroll up Blvd St. Michele for several miles and decide to have dinner at La Coupole in Montparnasse, one of our old favorites. But that's too far to continue on foot, so we take the Metro to Montparnasse train station and we are there. La Coupole has been dressed up and is no longer the rough edged brasserie we once knew. It is bright and shiny and comfortable. We feel right at home now, and LOVIN' IT!
 

 

Jill has one of her favorite bistro meals of all times, done especially well at La Coupole, Choucroute (all kinds of pig parts with saurcraut), finished off with Profiteroles (puff pastry filled with vanilla ice cream topped with Chantilly and melted dark chocolate...HEAVENLY!!