DAY 22 - FRI 3/22 - Le Marais

Today was a melange of activities. We started out taking Irene and Hal to Place des Vosges, which Hal had never seen. Being in the antiquary business and loving architecture and history, Hal went nuts. For us, seeing it again was certainly a pleasure because it is so breathtakingly beautiful. What we also did was go into Victor Hugo's house located upstairs in one corner of the square which we hadn't done before, and it was stunning too, as was the view on the entire square below. His apartment is identified by the flags. Notice the class of children sitting quietly listening to their teacher read a Victor Hugo children's story.

We gave Place des Vosges a good inspection and cut through the park in the center looking for Rue des Rosiers, the heart of the Jewish ghetto. A few map checks and direction inquiries and we approach our destination. Rue des Rosiers is a narrow, bustling thoroughfare lined by stores catering to the high school fashionista set and a few ethnic Jewish restaurants. Sadly, the most famous restaurant, Goldenbergs, has been closed permanently and replaced by yet another ubiquitous clothing store. However, the awning and frontage of the original landmark deli are still in tact, and the only thing that lets you know about the tragedy that occurred there is a plaque on the wall commemorating the 6 people who lost their lives in the terrorist attack in 1982. You may remember reading about it. Irene is distraught as she laments the loss of such a famous landmark.

The sights and the smells that you experience in this area are so compelling, with high energy, but the delis that still remain don't come anywhere near the caliber of Katz's Deli on Houston Street on the lower east side. We ate in a little restaurant where the corned beef looked like red sheets of paper and were so salty, and the chicken salad looked like shredded white meat tuna on a bed of lettuce with nothing else on it. It upsets us when we waste a meal, any meal, even breakfast, on something that really isn't good, but we chalked this one up to a cultural experience, and we bought a cute T-shirt from Micky's Deli, so it wasn't a total loss. 

We noticed a few curious things in the area: 

- a pink truck emblazoned with the plea: "The time has come to be less against the future of our children!" 

                                   

- a women's clothing shop advertising "Grandes Tailles XL and XXL" which we've never seen before in Paris. 

                                   

We also just enjoyed watching the people walking around having fun, eating, and talking, with Rue des Rosiers crowded as usual and street hawkers imploring you to try their falafel and other delicacies(?!)

After lunch we strolled back towards Blvd St. Antoine (Rue de Rivoli extension), passing more local sights...cars, bikes, had a noisette at a cafe, and bid a fond farewell to Irene and Hal. 

                                  

  

That was a wonderful nostalgic couple of days which brought back so many great memories of our early days in Paris. We promised not to let so much time go by before our next rendezvous, we kiss several times on each cheek, and sadly say goodbye.

OK, now on to business. Jill needs some adjustments to her new French eyeglasses and we plot out the walking route to the Optique store again which is on Etienne Marcel just off rue Montorgeuil in the Beaubourg area near the Pompidou. The store is crowded as usual, a testament to their fine collection of eye ware and superior staff. Gary, one of the technicians, is assigned to make Jill happy. He makes some adjustments and, voila, she's got a perfect fit.
                                  

By now it is late afternoon and we decide to stop for a cafe at Cafe Etienne Marcel, a bustling setting where we met Diariata, the model, a week ago. She is not there but we need the rest anyway, as well as more people-watching.

                                                   

We call our new contact, Stephanie Fray, the American PR Francophile we met at the Cornichon restaurant a week ago. She happens to be in the area and joins us. Stephanie is an interesting woman - attractive, dynamic, intelligent and entrepreneurial - who started her own PR firm, Conundrum Communications, several years ago and now splits time between NYC and Paris. She is open and friendly and we exchanged contact info. She even invited us to attend a seder if we want, but think we'll pass. One of her personal events was to rent a villa in Provence last November and do a grand Thanksgiving dinner for all her friends and other invited guests. It was a fascinating idea and huge logistical challenge, but she seems to do it all with ease and panache. A publication called Food Arts even picked it up and wrote a story about her. We exchanged more stories of our experiences, and especially about French culture, language, and living in France.  She's quite an interesting young woman, and we plan to see her again in Paris or New York. 

                                                

On the way to the Metro to go back home we stumble upon a specialty store of, among other exclusive acoutrements, just duck products like canned fois gras and fresh whole goose fois (liver) about 6" long and 4" wide and thick, that is meant to be cooked whole. We wanted to buy a little tin of some fois gras, but we've done that many times over the years, and then forgot about it in the cabinet and never ate it. Phew! We saved ourselves some euros there!

                                 

                                 

Tonight we had planned to dine at home but found ourselves too tired to shop for food. We ended up at Brasserie Rouseau just next door and we were delighted at the service, ambiance, friendly staff and good food at more reasonable prices. This is a good find, although a bit late because we are leaving this wonderful area on rue Cherche Midi in less than a week...can't believe how quickly the time is going by!

We came home and crashed.