DAY 31 - SUN 3/31 - La Tour Eiffel

Today is Easter Sunday and one of Catholic France's major Holidays.

We were too pooped to pop today, so we made a plan with the Harlings to each do our thing and meet in the late afternoon for our aperitif and dinner.

They ended up going to Montmartre, first doing Sacre Coeur, actually getting into the church to catch a pre-Easter service which they said was beautiful, and then going to Place du Tertre to see the artists. They said it was sooo crowded that they ended up just finding a nice, out of the way place to have lunch and people-watch.

We got up late and went to our new favorite cafe in the area on Rue de Grennelle, the main street in the 15th arondissement. There was a huge market there right under the elevated Metro tracks. This was a very large market, so we walked the entire length and back, drooling at some of the food products and displays. By the end of our walk, we again couldn't resist and just had to buy some cheeses, pate, bread, veggies, fruit and wine and bring it all home for a little picnic. We so wanted to use our cute little terrace, but it was still frigid outside, so we spread out in our little kitchenette. It was delicious and fun and relaxing...just what we needed.

After our dejeuner (lunch) we decided to actually visit La Tour Eiffel up close and personal. It's also in the 15th and within walking distance from our apartment. Almost as soon as you go out our door you can see it looming from every street in the area. We walked over, and, as many millions of times you have looked at it from afar, being right there is an unimaginable treat for the eyes...and an engineering marvel. There are just oceans of people waiting on forever-snaking queues at each of the four legs to get into the four huge elevators that bring you up to the first, second, and third levels. Even though it's bitter cold, there's a fun atmosphere and no one is complaining. We hang around for at least an hour, ogling and taking pictures from every angle, and of course watching the people. There is just one couple we see who has obviously just dined at the Jules Verne restaurant up on the third level. They are obviously wealthy, as the prices to go up and eat there are also out of this world! But probably that's because you can see the world from that vantage point. There's also a restaurant on the second level for the masses. And to think that this structure was to be only temporary, constructed as the entrance arch for the World's Fair of 1889. And so it has remained all these years, the tallest structure in Paris, and the most recognized and most visited paid monument in the world. 

          

          

We then left the area and started walking back to our old neighborhood in the 6th to meet the Harlings. We passed adorable children hugging trees and playing hide and seek, guards with assault rifles patrolling the streets ready for any activity, the Ecole Militaire and Les Invalides (Napoleon's tomb). Then we got into the really beautiful and high rent district...these apartment buildings make Park Avenue look like middle class housing! The air is different here along Avenue de la Bourdonnais and the Champ de Mars, a huge park stretching from La Tour Eiffel to the Ecole Militaire. 

           

There are privet hedges and horse drawn carriages slowly meandering through the beautiful scenery on this Easter Sunday...this is movie material...was that Woody Allen I just saw?

We continued walking until we reached 'ground zero' at Le Nemrod Cafe where we met up with the Harlings. They were already there waiting for us. We chatted with our old buddies, the waiters and barmen, who of course now all recognize us and engage us like old friends...it's very nice...we feel at home here...Marty even kissed Stephanie, our regular waitress. We caught up with the Harlings on each of our day's activities. And then it's time to go to dinner.

For their last night in Paris, we made a reservation at La Coupole again, one of our favorite haunts. Our confirmed reservation for five had somehow not appeared on the list, yet another snafu at La Coupole. Luckily, our Maitre D' friend, Sabastion Adam, was there to rescue us and promptly seated us. Then Marty noticed that the awful waiter we experienced last time with the Behars would be serving us.....that would not do, so, after a word with Sabastian, Marty got him to relocate us to a different table and soon complimentary champagne followed. It turned into a lovely beginning, and dinner was superb...starting with les huitres (ersters) and escargots and finishing up with our favorite La Coupole dessert of profiteroles...the Harlings enjoyed the La Coupole experience. We dined for several hours and then walked the Harlings back to rue de Rennes for their walk home and we took the Metro back to the 15th.

We so enjoyed the Harlings visit. It's becoming an annual event.