Sunday, March 3, 2013

DAY 3 - SUN 3/3 - Flea Mkt & Jim's

 Still recovering from jet lag, we got a late start this morning. Breakfast at Cafe Nemrod down the street - cafe au lait and coisant - as we plan our day. Since it's Sunday and sunny we decide to go the the Marche aux Puces (flea market) at Porte de Clingnancourt. Returning to the apartment we get distracted by distant trumpet sounds and decide to investigate. Et bien, viola - we discover the Sunday biologique (organic) outdoor market on Blvd Raspail. We are blown away as usual by the beautiful foods on display, including fruits, vegetables, meats, home made jams and the usual assorted goods. The market is several blocks long on an island divider with trees and market umbrellas. At a stand selling shearling booties we encounter an attractive French woman who engages us in a lengthy conversation in French and English. She was a former Ford model in NYC in the '70's and hungry for conversation. She is Catherine Aubert and gives us her busines card. On sait jamais (one never knows...)


A quick return home to re calculate our attire and we hop on the Metro heading for Port de Clignioncourt, where the most famous Marche aux Puces (Flea Market) is located.  The ride is 15 stops, and as we climb towards the street we begin to recall where we are.  It's been many years since our last visit but we find our sea legs and head towards Marche Paul Bert, our favorite section.

Here is the Marche aux Puces at Porte de Clignoncourt...with some of the sights and wares just waiting to be bargained for.  It's only open Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays, and it goes on forever...always SO MUCH FUN!!










            

           

The weather is spectacular and the market crowded with locals and a smattering of foreigners. It's 1:30pm and we locate bistro Paul Bert after some directions from shop owners. The restaurant has had a face lift over the years but remains a simple bistro with outdoor tables and tight indoor seating. Waitresses are working furiously but efficiently and we are seated at 2pm. This was a great nostalgic lunch and worth the effort. We strolled all over Paul Bert and walked back to the Metro for home to relax and get ready for our dinner at Jim's.

We arrive at the home of Jim Haynes promptly at 8pm. Jim is an American ex Pat who has lived in Paris for more than forty years. He was a professor, writer, theatre owner in London and more. He is a charming host, 78 years old now, and has this Sunday dinner thing (every week) down to a science. We are the first to arrive with two young women from Denver.  Guests arrive constantly and Jim makes sure that each guest is announced to the growing crowd and one to one as he works the room. Shamus prepares dinner....it's moussaka, a Greek specialty, and well made. It's a stand up dinner in a crowded room with about forty guests and everyone is friendly. We chat up everyone but especially Shana Colbin, a lovely shop owner from Denver in Paris on a buying trip for her three stores. She brought along two employees and two friends and they will be in Paris for three days then fly to Istambul. We exchange contact info and continue chatting for a long time. We also meet a lovely London couple, Tim Johanson, a young theatre producer, and his girl friend, Charlotte Langely. They are charming and Tim is bringing an off-Broadway show, Brits Off Broadway, to New York in June and heard we were from NYC. We have much in common with these twenty-somethings and talk at length, as they are quite worldly and know American politics, as most Europeans do. We plan to see them in NY.

Throughout the evening we meet dozens of friendly strangers all brought together serendipitously by Jim Haynes. We speak mostly English all night and Jim recommends an English speaking dentist for Jill, as part of a tooth cracked off while eating a piece of cheese at lunch. At about 10:30 the party starts to break up and we end up walking to the Metro with Shana and her group. Six babes and Marty. What could be bad? We are charmed by these bright, intelligent women in their early forties and younger, in Paris for the first time and soaking it all in. We take pictures on the Metro, say our good-byes and leave them at our Metro stop St. Placide and walk home.

- Here's where we arrive at Jim Haynes' for dinner with many other expats and people passing through Paris who have learned of his weekly soirées...lots of fun and an interesting melange of people...we talk to everybody of course...





- Here's Shana and her group...


We close the evening with some FaceTime with our daughter Deana...just amazing how communications have changed over these past forty-five years!
Good night, Paris...sweet dreams...

Saturday, March 2, 2013

DAY 2 - SAT 3/2 - Getting our feet wet

Today we wandered to some of our old haunts, and along the way found some other fun stuff. Follow along with us below:

- Found a fun Vintage clothing store called Kilo Shop where you could buy some terrific faux furs, and a multitude of scarfs and pashminas, which we did stock up on for ourselves and as great gifts...


-Here's Marty leaving the shop with our stash...
    

- Street scenes...
    

- Here's the Metro station at St. Michel, heart of the Rive Gauche, exactly where we came up to the street in May of 1968 (almost exactly 45 years ago) to run smack into a street uprising of students and workers, and the police using tear gas to quell the riots...it was like a war zone...those were crazy times...referred to as 'les evetements de Mai' (the events of May)...we can tell you stories of those times, just when we had arrived in Paris in 1968 with one-way tickets!

- The famous Bateau Mouche...

- Cathedrale de Notre Dame...

- Prefecteur de Police where we had all our Carte de Sejour papers processed (permissions to stay and work in France)...

-Eglise de Saint Chapelle...being refurbished...

- Booksellers along the Seine...

- Bird Market...

- Hotel de la Ville (City Hall), and the fabulous Bazaar Hotel de la Ville right behind it (aka BHV - the Paris version of Home Depot where we used to get all of our home supplies, gadgets, and tools)...Marty just had to go there and buy something for old time sake...he found a plug adapter from 110 to 220 that we needed...and he almost bought one of those fantasia shirts until I stopped him just in time!  But we were having fun in the process and again it brought back memories, except BHV used to be more of a warehouse, grungy, with stuff in huge barrels, and now it's like a huge hardware and sundries store...totally upscale...with no hunting challenge anymore, nor bargains...



- Place des Vosges main entrance, in the Marais area...

- The arcade all around Place des Vosges...beautifully illuminated at night to highlight the wonderful architecture...

- Place St. Michel at night...a hub of activity where students, as well as tourists, congregate all day and all night...

- A typical romantic French couple...

- Merry-Go-Round in front of City Hall...lit up brightly at night...

- Notre Dame in the distance at night...no matter where or when you look, it's all so beautiful and romantic...

- Chez Allard, one of the famous classic old brasseries where we had dined many times when we lived here, and it didn't disappoint...

- with decorations on the original old zinc bar

- our first course of escargots...

- followed by rognons madere (veal kidneys in Madera wine), and Coquille St. Jacques in buerre blanc (scallops in white butter sauce), ending with Tarte Tatin avec Chantilly (apple tart with whipped cream) and cafe...oh la la!

Friday, March 1, 2013

WE HAVE ARRIVED!! Friday March 1st

Fabulous flight! Sat on the top deck of the Air France Airbus. Didn't sleep too much though because of two Spanish senoras sitting next to us who didn't stop yapping, and a very crying baby behind us.


Jean Pierre, the agent, met us in front of the big red door of the charming apartment building on Rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th arondissement, with inner courtyard, and took us up to our apartment to show us how everything works. 
  

It's a really cute place in a fabulous area of the Rive Gauche. The elevator can fit just 2 people, or 1 person and 1 suitcase (sideways).  Marty takes up almost the whole space.  But at least there IS an elevator. 
  

Everything is miniature here, but it's got all you need. 

                                                           Living room with fireplace...

Eat-in kitchen area...

We've installed ourselves and now, although we're exhausted, we're going out to explore the neighborhood and try to last out the day without crashing. It's a typical damp gray raw March day, but that won't stop us.

Checked out a lot of the local shops...so many choices of such great style and quality...you want to try and buy everything. Spent some time browsing in a high end epicerie (food store like Eataly) within a famous old department store called Bon Marche...note below the building, the pastry, one with pearls on top, edible I'm sure, and then the freshest seafood, crevettes (tiny baby shrimp), the coquilles St. Jacques (scallops), and the hugest langoustines (shrimp as big as a lobster tail). We ended up bringing some stuff home...cheeses, prosciutto, fabulous baguette, baby tomatoes, and fraises du bois (baby strawberries from the forest that have a perfumy flavor), and dined at home with the nice bottle of red wine from the owner. We were just too pooped to go out tonight...it was delicious and just what the doctor ordered. Now to beddy-boops, hopefully sleeping thru the night so we can be refreshed and get on local Paris time ASAP. We don't have any agenda, so we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Famous Bon Marche Department Store right near our apartment...with its stand-alone Epicerie, a separate building all about food...(sort of like Eataly in New York, but with French food, not Italian)...it has everything, and of the highest quality.  It was our fall-back when we wanted to dine in and not go out to a restaurant, which happened a few times in the 4 weeks we were in this apartment nearby...

The pastry department...

The fish department...

Dining chez nous with some of our favorite cheeses, jambon, pain, fruit and vin...Bon Apetit!

D-DAY!! Thursday February 28, 2013

It's ironic that today is also Justin's birthday, and we're going back to where he was born!

We're at JFK, excited and very ready to go!